While playing with a newly created DTM using data sourced from the Geo-Portal for Wales (under the Find open data - data.gov.uk open data agreement) I had to satisfy my own curiosity as to if my thoughts on my local surf break and why I was able to predict the waves better than my friends was actually based on my geographic knowledge! The map below shows my interpretation, when standing on the beach, it is very difficult to see the slight changes in slope, elevation and aspect. However these minor changes have an enormous impact on how the oceans wave power is dispersed as it approaches the coast.
Aside from me know where to sit to ensure I get more waves than my friends, this type of analysis outlines why data such as this is so important to understanding coastal sea defence and planning for storm events as the sea level continues to rise.
The map below show's the interpretation.
Glossary:
Right – Wave that peels to the right as you look back to the beach due to a rise in sea floor elevation to the left forcing the wave to slow down, rise up and break to the right.
Left – Wave that peels to the left as you look back towards the beach due to a rise in sea floor elevation to the right forcing the wave to slow down, rise up and break to the left.
A-frame – A wave that peels in both directions due to a triangular feature protruding from the coast causing the wave to break both left and right.
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Chris Jenkins
Pitney Bowes Software Ltd
HENLEY-ON-THAMES
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